Terminal 15 is refering to the terminal 15 power supply in ther wiring diagram. I forget what 15 is but there are others as well, 15,30,31,75x (battery power, ground, key on power, etc...)
Try erasing the code and see if your symptoms go away. Otherwise you may now have a problem in your cluster.

 

terminal 15
it might be as simple as fuse 15!?!

fuse 15 is for navigation/cluster.
maybe a coinsident. when I remove the fuse and put it back, I hear a ratteling sound from the cluster and the speed/rpm needles are shaking for a second.

I do suspect that the cluster itself is broken.

Will call my Audi dealer tomorrow and schedule a time for repair.

 

The rattling is normal, it's the initialization when you connect power to the cluster. Terminal 15 is the ignition contact. If the 00576 doesn't come back after deleting all fault you should be fine, otherwise the ignition key contact block may be broken.

 

Thanx AudiA4UsS.
now I have another thing to look at.
Will tare down the interior once again so I get access to the ignition switch.
put on the ignition and measure if I have any voltage on the pin.
If I dont I will brigde it so I now there is voltage there and then fire her up.

I hope this works!

 

So I had a look.
pin 15 is a big fat black wire at the ignition block. (cant see that it should be anyything else that a ground lead)

and there is ground on that wire.

another thing I noticed: the battery has drained over night. the light switch was set to 0, but I get the feeling that the RNS-E never shuts down.
When I connected the BT interface I spliced the powercable to the RNS-E. is this right or should I connect the BTinterface on a switched supply?
since it´s possible to configure how long the BT interface remain on after ignition off I imagine that it must have constant +. and it goes down in a sleep mode via a signal from the k-line.

 

My mistake.

Pin 15 is grounded when the key is turned off. and I get 12V from it when I switch the key on.
Followed the black lead to a relay. It says "370" on it.
checked the relaay and it works at it should.

going out again and see if I can follow the wires further.

 

I give up. I can't find anything if I dont get a workshop manual.
I have booked a visit at the workshop.
But I am still curious what might be broken.

updated list of the symptoms:
No indicators in the cluster (lights on, turn signal, high beam etc. )
No cruise control,
No speed and RPM meters.
No automatic light
The battery is draining very fast. I have isolated the drainage to the RNS-E. it never turns off. (solve that problem by pulling the fuse when car is not used)

can it be the ignition block?
is it the instrument cluster itself? (but it seems to be working, se output tests with wag-com finnishes withous problem)
The RNS-E (normally) turns of after a while when leaving the car. but exactly WHAT is controlling this? K-line? Can-bus?
is there any controlbox for the whole kit?
Can the K-line/canbus system be broken? (I can still VAG to rns-e, cluster, engine etc)

 

It sounds to me like you either have an incorrect connection onto the CAN bus (shorting one of the two lines maybe?), or you have damaged the CAN bus drivers.

First step, remove the RNS-E and all your added wiring. Do the rest of the systems on the car now work? If yes, then you have a wiring problem in your added wiring or a damaged RNS-E.

Second step (if first step solved the rest of the car problems), check out and correct if necessary your added wiring. Third step re-try - if still faulty and you're sure your wiring is OK then you have a faulty RNS-E.

Second step (if rest of car problems remained), then you have damaged the CAN bus drivers in your car and will need to get them diagnosed and replaced by the dealer. While he is doing that check your added wiring and RNS-E so that the same thing doesn't happen again!

 

I tried to disconnect canbus to RNS-E.
help me think :
Since I retrofitted from RNS-D I had to disconnect the TMC-box in the trunk. instead of tapping in to canbus through the cluster I used the old canbus wires:
from cluster to TMC in the trunk, from TMC to the RNS-D/E
there fore I had to make a jumper on the wires in the trunk.
If I remove this jumper I disconnect the RNS-E from the system (right?)
my BT is connected (spliced) om the RNS-E harness.
same thing with my A/V interface.

everything worked (exept BT) when I started the car and drove 10 miles to a friend to code the newly installed BT-interface.

 

w0000t

now am I getting somewhere!!!

Sat in the car looking around with my vagcom (4.01 with a non-rosstsch cable)
I went into the adaption channels of the instrumet cluster and found some really strange values.

I read at toss-tech and found "new" values
fired her up and BAM! I had RPM, took her for a tiny ride, and I also had speed meter!
MAN do I felt relieved?!

I think there is some more coding to do, I still miss all the indicators, and I get no warning chime when I leave the car with lights on.

I will keep on reading and trying.

 

Everything seems normal now!
wow that saved me a visit at the workshop and a lot of money!

One thing though:
The RNS-E dont turn off properly.
I know that the unit stays on for a while after I leave the car.
Tested to stay in the car and lock it with the remote control.
I can hear a small hissing noise from the speakers.
After a while the hissing stops and the screan on the RNS-E makes a small blink (just like you shut down a television set with the remote control)
then 3 secons later, the hissing noise comes back.

I think I have coded the BT interface wrong. I cant connect to it unless it has been out of power for some time.
I believe I coded it with 10302
and i think it should be 10702

Can that have anything to do with the problems to connect and the power issue with the RNS-E?
I will go to a friend and have it recoded as soon I can get hold of him

 

Recoded the BT and now it works flawlessly!
But I still think that the RNS-E dont shut down properly.
I put a battery charger in the trunk. it charges ~5A

I will go out and see in an hour or two if the charging current has dropped.
measured the amps in the fusebox, and the RNS-E took about 4A. so a charging current of 5A is quite reasonable.

another thing that's bugging me.
Yesterday when I got everything running again I also had the radio controlled clock.
But today I didn´t
The little antenna symbol was gone, and the clock was totally wrong

 

Just make sure that the doors are closed and teh car locked. Otherwise the RNS-E will not power off for a long time.

 

The doors are closed and locked. 1,5 hours later I still have a batterydrain of 5A
And the battery IS fully loaded.

I hadn´t this problem before.

How about canbus? is there a coding I might have missed somewhere?

instrument cluster (17)

Channel 060: CAN-Databus Powertrain (Installation List)
* +00001 = Engine (Standard)
* +00002 = Automatic Transmission (Optional)
* +00004 = Brake (Standard)
* +00016 = Airbag (Standard)
* +01024 = Instrument Cluster (Standard)
coded 1045

Channel 061: CAN-Databus Comfort (Installation List)
* +00001 = Central Electronics (Standard)
* +00002 = Comfort System (Standard)
* +00064 = Trailer (Optional)
* +00128 = Convertible Top (Optional)
* +00256 = Instrument Cluster (Standard)
* +00512 = Tire Pressure Control (Optional)
* +01024 = Steering Column Electronics (Standard)
* +02048 = Climate Control (Standard)
* +32768 = Auxiliary Heating (Optional)
coded 3331


Channel 062: CAN-Databus Infotainment (Installation List)
* +00001 = Radio (Optional)
* +00002 = Telephone (Optional)
* +00004 = Navigation (Optional)
* +00008 = Telematics (Optional)
* +00016 = Intrument Cluster (Standard - only coded with 2nd Component)
coded 23