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I just noticed while I was in the garage I opened up the car and sat in it for a second and since everything was quiet. I hear a "hissing" sound coming from "ALL" of the speakers!

Its just like the "white" or "pink" noise sound that you use to calibrate your home speakers setup with. Its either of the two, cause I'm not sure exactly which one it is but you get the point.

Like I said I didn't have my keys in the car or anything! I've never noticed it before. How/why is this happening?
 

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The RNS-E goes into standby when you unlock the car, and standby powers on the amp qnd other peripherals. The Bose amp is know to cause that white noise, some more, some less. With the Symphony the amp got turned on with the radio (or ignition when the radio was on) and therefore you didn't hear that noise that much. In my B6 I hear this with both the Symphony (when volume was off) and the RNS-E (standby or volume off).
 

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This question has been asked several times now - seems worth adding to the FAQ section.
 

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Is there a way to fix this because i'm pretty sure this is why my battery is being drained if I don't run the car in a few days.
 

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cobidawg said:
Is there a way to fix this because i'm pretty sure this is why my battery is being drained if I don't run the car in a few days.
The hissing should only occur until the RNS-E shuts down completely, which should happen after about 30 minutes after locking the car. Maybe you can measure the voltage at the remote wire at your amp and confirm it's going off after the RNS-E shut down completely?
 

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I just found that I am experiencing this hissing problem as well. All my speakers huummm after shutting down the RNS-E

So, do we have any proof that after 30 minutes this drain on the battery is really stopping?

Or is the fact that it is suppose to stop after 30 minutes just a theory?

I would rather not have my battery drained for 30 minutes everytime I turn off my car!!! there must be something we can do about this!

what do you all think?
 

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I had my doubts about mine shutting off till i sat in the car and locked it. The RNS-E completely powered off in ~2 minutes. About the same time that the emergency light button goes out.

I also notice that when i unlocked the car, it went back into standby mode.
 

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I just did a test myself. I sat in the unit, turned on the car, turned on the RNS-E then turned it off and turned off the car. I locked the doors and waited.

Good News...about a minute after I locked the doors witn the key fob I found that the hissing stopped. I also noticed that when I unlocked the doors the unit went into standby mode and the hissing resumed. I repeated the test just to make sure. So, it does appear that the unit shuts off the Amp after a minute or so!

cheers!
 

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*sigh* i still get this problem. I have sat in my car for a few min with the doors locked and yes the hissing sound goes away somewhat you can still hear it if you put your ear right next to the speaker. This never happened with my symphony 2.
 

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cobidawg said:
*sigh* i still get this problem. I have sat in my car for a few min with the doors locked and yes the hissing sound goes away somewhat you can still hear it if you put your ear right next to the speaker. This never happened with my symphony 2.
That's because the Symphony 2 goes OFF when you turn if off, but the RNS-E goes into a sort-of standby mode for a few minutes before going OFF.
 

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All I know is that it stays in standby mode and never actually goes off because if it stis for a few days the battery is very daed.
Make sure that your k-line and CAN high/low are properly wired. Tried to reset the unit by pressing RADIO and SETUP until it reboots. Also try to diconnect any 3rd party device. If this doesn't help, check with VAG-COM if there are any error logged. The unit will turn off after a few minutes and/or after locking the car. If it doesn't then there is something wrong.
 

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Well I feel like an idot now, I was looking over my wiring harness and noticed that the # 16 - U14R-1 pin was switched with the # 13 - U14 ST DSP pin so the amp was never being switched off. I don't know why it came like that.
 

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I imagine this could also happen...

I imagine this could also happen if the Alarm Ground connection is not made. Otherwise, how would the RNS know whether the doors are locked or not?
 

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Re: I imagine this could also happen...

st31 said:
I imagine this could also happen if the Alarm Ground connection is not made. Otherwise, how would the RNS know whether the doors are locked or not?
It will assume after 10-60 minutes with igniton and head unit off that you have left the car for good. That's reason enough to power off the amp. At least did it so in my B6 before I connected the alarm wire properly.
 

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My RNS-E does not turn off completley. it drain abut 4A constantly.
I have a relais on the remote lead to power a DVD player..
RNS-E should have turned the remote output off, but it's still on
When I stand outside the car I can operate the DVD player with the remote control. (2 ours after I closed and locked the doors)

The problem started after I fitted a BT interface.
The car was equipped with telephone preparation from the beginning, and I removed the telephone interface (under passenger seat) and installed the BT interface in the same box.

I power the BT through a splice of the power supply of RNS-E

What to do?
 

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So I found the source of this problem!!! :idea:

I had a relay connected to the remote pin of the RNS-E.
on the relays contactor I have a powercable spliced rom the powercable to the RNS-E.
The "output" of the relay is connected to a DVDplayer and a A/Vinterface.

The RNS-E DOES actually tries to turn off, but It seems not to be able to

I can come up with 2 diffrent explanations to why this occur.

1: the constant powercable i drawn right next to the remotecable. an induction between the two cables and the small current that goes BACK to the RNS-E is enough for keeping RNS-E on

2: The impedance in the relay is to low that makes the ground "fool" the RNS-E
(the potential diffrencies between ground and the remote system in the RNS-E makes it feel a positive feed - hard to explain this in english)
Just like you can take 7 Volts out of a computers PSU using just red (5V) and yellow (12); Yellow is positive and red becomes negative with the potential 7V up to 12V
 
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