BTW, am i even looking at the right plug?
thanks!
thanks!
Dead battery again after switching brown wire...
ok, i've been reading about switching 13 to 16 or something like that to eleviate the dead battery problem.
However, it happend to me again. Can someone help by looking at my picture to see if what i did was correct or incorrect. If incorrect by showing me on my picture which wire to move i'd really appriciate it.
thanks,
below is a pic of my harness. the arrow pointing to the brown wire was the one i moved thinking i would fix the dead battery problem... i was wrong. the red circle indicates where the brown wire originated when i got my harness.
![]()
However, it happend to me again. Can someone help by looking at my picture to see if what i did was correct or incorrect. If incorrect by showing me on my picture which wire to move i'd really appriciate it.
thanks,
below is a pic of my harness. the arrow pointing to the brown wire was the one i moved thinking i would fix the dead battery problem... i was wrong. the red circle indicates where the brown wire originated when i got my harness.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
can anyone chime in... i'm hoping to resolve this by today!
thanks much appriciated.
thanks much appriciated.
The wire you removed is the main ground wire (8 pin plug connecting to your car). I doubt that this makes any difference in regards to the draining battery and I wonder where you unit gets ground from right now.
What you should check is whether your amp and any external device powers off correctly. The remote wire is in the 20 pin plug, check the Symphony II diagram on top of your Symphony (the wire with the switch symbol in the line-out section of the 20 pin plug) and make sure that it is connected to U14 St DSP (pin 13 in connector D connecting to the RNS-E).
What you should check is whether your amp and any external device powers off correctly. The remote wire is in the 20 pin plug, check the Symphony II diagram on top of your Symphony (the wire with the switch symbol in the line-out section of the 20 pin plug) and make sure that it is connected to U14 St DSP (pin 13 in connector D connecting to the RNS-E).
ok, i checked the audi sympony diagram and the RNS-E diagram and i'm just as confused as before. it doesnt tell me anything about a remote wire.
Can someone hook a brotha up and show a pic of what connector and wire were switched to eliviate the dead battery. I would really appriciate it. I'm more of a visual person and that would really help me out.
thanks
Can someone hook a brotha up and show a pic of what connector and wire were switched to eliviate the dead battery. I would really appriciate it. I'm more of a visual person and that would really help me out.
thanks
This is the Symphony II diagram:
[siteimg:e93377f145]87[/siteimg:e93377f145]
And this is the same for the RNS-E:
[siteimg:e93377f145]152[/siteimg:e93377f145]
The wire which tells your amp that the radio is on is the one with the little switch symbol. If you count left to right, top to bottom, it's pin 12, right next to the pin labeled COM.
Now, if you check the RNS-E diagram, there are 4 connectors A, B, C, D. D is the 8 pin connector right next to the fuse. And it has one pin labeled U14 ST DSP (Radio on). The big plug where all the wires and smaller plugs are in is called Quadlock plug.
Take your RNS-E to Symphony adapter, remove the tape and locate the wire which is in the 8 pin connector D pin 13. Make sure you locate the correct pin since the diagram is showing the back of the RNS-E, so you need to lok at the quadlock from the back (the side where the wires are). Follow the wire and make sure it is going to pin 12 in the 20 pin plug. If it is not, follow the wire starting at pin 12 in the 20 pin plug and check where it goes. It may go to pin 16 in connector D which would be wrong.
[siteimg:e93377f145]87[/siteimg:e93377f145]
And this is the same for the RNS-E:
[siteimg:e93377f145]152[/siteimg:e93377f145]
The wire which tells your amp that the radio is on is the one with the little switch symbol. If you count left to right, top to bottom, it's pin 12, right next to the pin labeled COM.
Now, if you check the RNS-E diagram, there are 4 connectors A, B, C, D. D is the 8 pin connector right next to the fuse. And it has one pin labeled U14 ST DSP (Radio on). The big plug where all the wires and smaller plugs are in is called Quadlock plug.
Take your RNS-E to Symphony adapter, remove the tape and locate the wire which is in the 8 pin connector D pin 13. Make sure you locate the correct pin since the diagram is showing the back of the RNS-E, so you need to lok at the quadlock from the back (the side where the wires are). Follow the wire and make sure it is going to pin 12 in the 20 pin plug. If it is not, follow the wire starting at pin 12 in the 20 pin plug and check where it goes. It may go to pin 16 in connector D which would be wrong.
i take it that the wire in question that we are trying to move to the correct connector is a yellow w/ green stripe wire?
thank you for explaining that to me, but i have a feeling that my connector D plug (black 8pin plug ) isnt correct from the beginning.
from this picture, can you tell if my 8pin connector is correct? disregard the brown wire on where its at. i'll move it back to the original setting which was where the red circle is.
![]()
thank you for explaining that to me, but i have a feeling that my connector D plug (black 8pin plug ) isnt correct from the beginning.
from this picture, can you tell if my 8pin connector is correct? disregard the brown wire on where its at. i'll move it back to the original setting which was where the red circle is.
You are looking at the wrong connector. The 8pin connector D is in the Quadlock which connects to the RNS-E. There are two 8 pin connectors in the Quadlock, A and D. You are looking at connector III, which is 8 pin as well but connecting to the car.
the reason why i say my plug may be incorrect is, i dont think it matches the RNS-E diagram. This is why I need a photo of your plug so I can compare.
I'm being a pain in the ass, i know, but it will definately help me out if I can compare.
I'm being a pain in the ass, i know, but it will definately help me out if I can compare.
AudiA4B6US said:You are looking at the wrong connector. The 8pin connector D is in the Quadlock which connects to the RNS-E. There are two 8 pin connectors in the Quadlock, A and D. You are looking at connector III, which is 8 pin as well but connecting to the car.
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH... <hitting my head>
ok ok, let me look at it again with your instructions.
ok, with the help with audia4b6us... i am now looking at the correct plug. looking in the back of the plug, where the wires are i see that i have a red wire with green/stripe in 16 and nothing on 13. should i move 16 to 13?
Try it and see if your amp turn off after a couple of minutes.
ok, i've made the changes, now i'll need to pick up a charger to charge the battery. after jumping it its not holding the charge enough.
Sounds like you're going to need a new battery once you get the connections corrected.2EURO said:ok, i've made the changes, now i'll need to pick up a charger to charge the battery. after jumping it its not holding the charge enough.
BTW quoting colours of wires probably won't help much - since the adapters are made by many different suppliers and there is no agreed colour coding.
It really annoys me that we as a group have spent lots of money buying adapters from a limited number of suppliers and some of them still can't get the connections correct - leading to flat batteries in several cases now.
Perhaps we should "name & shame" the problem suppliers, and give credit to the good ones? I got my adapter from Ralf Deventer, and he got the connections 100% correct.
well, i bought a charger from sears and it charged the battery to 100% like new!PetrolDave said:Sounds like you're going to need a new battery once you get the connections corrected.2EURO said:ok, i've made the changes, now i'll need to pick up a charger to charge the battery. after jumping it its not holding the charge enough.
BTW quoting colours of wires probably won't help much - since the adapters are made by many different suppliers and there is no agreed colour coding.
It really annoys me that we as a group have spent lots of money buying adapters from a limited number of suppliers and some of them still can't get the connections correct - leading to flat batteries in several cases now.
Perhaps we should "name & shame" the problem suppliers, and give credit to the good ones? I got my adapter from Ralf Deventer, and he got the connections 100% correct.
I stared her up this morning and she started! So, i'm hoping that I've corrected the problem. We'll see when I get home tonight.
Also, I agree that who ever is making the harness that they fix the problem so that no one else gets the dead battery issue.
I agree that these should be made correctly from jump... but I still think it is wise to check your own adapter harness before plugging it into a device that costs $1500 and is (usually) not under warranty. The information to verify the wiring connections is readily available from this site and others.PetrolDave said:Sounds like you're going to need a new battery once you get the connections corrected.2EURO said:ok, i've made the changes, now i'll need to pick up a charger to charge the battery. after jumping it its not holding the charge enough.
BTW quoting colours of wires probably won't help much - since the adapters are made by many different suppliers and there is no agreed colour coding.
It really annoys me that we as a group have spent lots of money buying adapters from a limited number of suppliers and some of them still can't get the connections correct - leading to flat batteries in several cases now.
Perhaps we should "name & shame" the problem suppliers, and give credit to the good ones? I got my adapter from Ralf Deventer, and he got the connections 100% correct.
Thanks for the info guys
My battery was going flat and the Audi centre diagnosed it as a faulty unit! They were about to put in a warranty claim till i pointed out that i fitted it myself!
Anyway pin 13 was in pin 16...... I should have checked this earlier as the adapter had alarm gnd from the car wired up to Tel Mute originally!! If i ever meet the foriegn dude who supplied the adapter (from ebay) i'm gonna punch him one!
I've got a new adapter coming from Kufatec - hope thats wired correctly but will check it wire by wire before installing!
Jake
My battery was going flat and the Audi centre diagnosed it as a faulty unit! They were about to put in a warranty claim till i pointed out that i fitted it myself!
Anyway pin 13 was in pin 16...... I should have checked this earlier as the adapter had alarm gnd from the car wired up to Tel Mute originally!! If i ever meet the foriegn dude who supplied the adapter (from ebay) i'm gonna punch him one!
I've got a new adapter coming from Kufatec - hope thats wired correctly but will check it wire by wire before installing!
Jake
i've been building some custom harnesses for some clients this week...and this new "generation" of plug/play harnesses have the following issues:
1) alarm ground is wired into tele mute
2) CD audio ground is wired into main ground source
3) bose pin and gala wire were mixed up....
...and a few other small items.
see Lee's post for more details:
http://www.navplus.us/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1418
1) alarm ground is wired into tele mute
2) CD audio ground is wired into main ground source
3) bose pin and gala wire were mixed up....
...and a few other small items.
see Lee's post for more details:
http://www.navplus.us/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1418
i forgot mine had the rear speaker output wired up incorrectly as well - they were going to the fronts so no rear sound!
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Audi Forum
A forum community dedicated to all Audi owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, Quattro systems, turbos, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
