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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hear a hiss coming from the speakers when the car is off when I sit in the car with the vehicle alarm armed. Yet, I pulled the unit out and confirmed that harness Pin D13 is connected to Pin 12 on Connector I.

Could the fact that I have not yet connected the Alarm Ground pin have anything to do with this? If not that, then any other ideas? I'm tired of coming back to a dead battery.

Thanks!
 

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This is not pin 12 in connector I, it's the 12th pin counting left to right, top to bottom in the picture posted in the original mesage and this is pin 6 in connector I following the offical numbering and Lee's excellent chart.

That being said, if you sit in your car and keep the doors close and RNS-E turned off, the hissing should stop after 10-60 minutes (even without alarm wire connected). If it doesn't then something is preventing your amp to power off.
 

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I don't think your alarm gnd pin is causing this. I have spent the last 2 weeks with my alarm gnd disconnected, and the RNS-E behaves the same way as always.

The RNS-E appears to get the "doors locked" and "driver's door open" signals over CANbus... so I'd make sure your CAN connections are working well.
 

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Well I just came out to a dead battery! I've had the car for just at a month now and I've had the RNS-E for just as long.

I checked and I didn't leave on any dome lights or anything, WTF!!!
 

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todd1010 said:
Well I just came out to a dead battery! I've had the car for just at a month now and I've had the RNS-E for just as long.

I checked and I didn't leave on any dome lights or anything, WTF!!!
Did you verify the wiring in your PNP harness before installation?
 

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had the same problem on mine - wires in adapter were wrong as per NSX JRs diagnosis - basically connects the amp to permanent live which is what flattens the battery

Jake
 

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jakerade said:
had the same problem on mine - wires in adapter were wrong as per NSX JRs diagnosis - basically connects the amp to permanent live which is what flattens the battery

Jake
Which wires should I look at? I'm currently out of town and don't really have a place to do a lot of trouble shooting, so if I know which wires to look at then it would make my job a little easier.
 

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there should be NO pin in D16 is the easiest thing to check - D13 should be wired to pin 6 on connector 1
 

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jakerade said:
there should be NO pin in D16 is the easiest thing to check - D13 should be wired to pin 6 on connector 1
Thanks, I'll print up a quick picture of the connectors and try and check them this weekend.

I came out to a dead battery again this morning. What is very weird is that I've had the RNS-E connected this same way since the day I bought it, 4 weeks ago. The RNS was installed by me 2 days later and up until this past Sunday I've never had a problem with a dead battery.
 

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It has probably been going dead slowly over this time. I would bet good money that your amp is being powered from D16.
 

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To make sure my harness is correct, I should make sure there is NO pin in D16?

D13 should be wired to pin 6 on connector 1 to power the amp?
 

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Correct. You MAY have a pin in D16 if it powers something else like a bluetooth module or sat tuner through a custom built harness. But for a regular old plug and play RNS-E harness, there should be nothing in D16.
 

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does anyone know how much current the RNS-E draws when it is off? I checked on mine and it is drawing about 2.5 amp. I would assume it should be less. I have the dead battery symptom now.
 

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How are you testing this 2.5 amps?

Is that while the fan is still running after power down (about 2 minutes)?

Is that before it turns the amp off (about a minute after power down)?
 

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I know I'm going to check the wiring harness, but I "REALLY" believe the company that made my custom wiring harness should have made sure about the wiring.

I mean I paid quite a bit for this custom wiring harness and now I've got to go back over their work. I don't mind checking it but this problem should have been taken care of when it was made.
 
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